by Jonathan Hermann
They say Christopher Columbus set foot upon Baracoa in 1492, declared that its beauty was unmatched and planted a wooden cross into the ground. The explorer's arrival has been questioned, as well as the validity of the cross. However, that claim—that this area on Cuba's easternmost shores is the island's most enchanting locale—is undeniable.
Another fact that is not denied is the city's age. Officially settled in 1511, Baracoa is the oldest
colonial city in all of the Americas. Despite its age, this windswept seaport is just beginning to be discovered by tourists, mostly due to its location—hidden between rugged mountains and black-sand beaches—and its isolation—it was not connected by rail or road to the rest of the country until the 1960s.
However, those who are fortunate enough to step foot in this remote corner of the island will be rewarded with a colonial village untouched by time, miles of beaches to themselves and a nearby rain forest teaming with life. So if you do make it to Baracoa, here are seven ways to enjoy the strangest little town in Cuba.
Hike El Yunque
Baracoa's signature mountain, El Yunque, is a hulking flat-topped mesa 575 meters high. You can never escape El Yunque—the sheer-sided behemoth dominates the skyline, peering down at you from almost every angle. Your four-hour hike to its plateau will take you through the surrounding rain forest, which has been declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve due to rare plants and birds. A guide will be needed to show you the way to the top, which once you reach, will reward you with a view so grand you'll swear that you see Morocco across the Atlantic.
Feast on Cucurucho
Baracoa is well known for its unique and flavorful cuisine—a benefit of its isolation. One of its sweetest delicacies is cucurucho, a delicious mix of grated coconut, pineapple, honey, sugar and guava wrapped in a palm frond. Head straight to Fábrica de Cucurucho on the west side of the bay to dive into this sticky treat.
Take the Roller Coaster Road
The highway that leads into Baracoa is almost as famous as the town itself. Scenic La Farola ("the lighthouse road") barrels its way for 55 kilometers into Sierra del Purial, twisting and spiraling down steep ravines, through a cloud forest and past massive granite cliffs. The driver must keep his eyes peeled on the road, but passengers enjoy the dramatic views at every turn, revealing a lush bouquet of banana, pine and palm trees.
Have a Drink at El Costillo
How often do you get a chance to down a pint of the local beer in a hotel built atop a 290-year-old fortress that later became a prison? Welcome to the Hotel El Costillo, which has an open terrace bar that offers one of the best views of the city and bay. Before you have too many beers, be sure to climb the 85-step staircase to a turret that remains from the original fortress.
See the Cross of Columbus
Fact or fiction? You be the judge when you see the legendary “Cruz de la Parra,” a meter-tall cross on display at Catedral Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. The church, dating back to 1652, proudly displays the well-worn cross which, according to local legends, Christopher Columbus left behind on his maiden voyage in 1492. Carbon-dating confirms that the cross is roughly 500 years old, although many experts choose not to believe its connection to the explorer.
Visit the Cave Museum
On the southern side of Baracoa you'll find the Museo Arqueológico Cueva del Paraíso residing in a cave system that was once a burial chamber. It now displays indigenous artifacts, skeletons, ceramics and jewelry within floodlit cases you can only reach by climbing wooden scaffolds. Peruse at your own risk!
Disco in the Street
A trip to Baracoa is not complete without mingling with the locals during one of their famous street parties. Every Saturday night, Calle Maceo turns into an open-air disco sectioned off with Christmas lights and loud music. Bring your own drinks and best dancing shoes.
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